Kelso
We had called ahead to reserve one of the last rooms available at Cross Keys Hotel in Kelso. When we arrived, we were surprised to see a large, impressive building dating from 1769. Even before then, since the earliest days of the Scottish coaching inns, there has been a Cross Keys inn on that site. The first historical mention of the town is in the twelfth century.
The hotel faces a French-style cobblestone town square, said to the be the largest in Scotland. (Scotland and France long enjoyed a close relationship and cultural exchange.) Kelso is a market town of fewer than 7,000 people, but like all the towns we saw on our journey through Great Britain, it is busy and prosperous. Visitors come to enjoy the beautiful Scottish border area and a variety of activities from fishing to concerts.
The family-owned hotel was welcoming and very comfortable. We booked a time for breakfast the following morning, and were served a full Scottish breakfast. Dempsey is still talking about it as “the best hotel breakfast ever.”
Edinburgh
The trip from Kelso to Edinburgh was less than an hour. Edinburgh, Scotland’s capital, consists of the Old Town dating from the Middle Ages, a neoclassical residential expansion built during the Georgian era, and more modern suburbs. The city grew along an estuary call the Firth of Forth, the confluence of several rivers including the River Forth. In modern times, the city has expanded all the way to the North Sea.
After two days of driving across England, Dempsey was exhausted. He opted to stay in the hotel room, while I went out to be a tourist. Knowing we’d have only a day in Edinburgh, I was eager to go out and see the town.
We have become fans of double-decker bus tours in cities new to us. We can sit on top in the open air, take pictures when we want, get off to explore at different stops, then get back on when we’re ready. Riders are provided with headphones to plug in, select a language, and listen to a guided tour. It’s a great way to become oriented and understand the layout of the city.
The first thing that struck me when I saw Edinburg was how virtually every building was the same dreary dark brown. The architecture is beautiful, but when I sat high on that bus and gazed around for several miles, I found the uniform dark color dismal and depressing.
Because of the abundance of blonde and red sandstone in the area, the old buildings were all made of that material. Sandstone is porous and readily absorbs dirt. The growth of manufacturing in Edinburg during the Industrial Revolution, and the numerous smokestacks atop the tall tenement buildings, produced dirty smoke that penetrated the stone.
After the Clean Air Act of 1956, air pollution was greatly diminished, and an effort was made to clean surfaces of the buildings. Sandstone is a great material for construction because it is easy to sculpt, but that same quality makes it easy to damage the stone. The cleaning effort was eventually abandoned.
There are some beautiful monuments and statuary in the city, and lovely parks and gardens. Edinburgh has often been compared to Athens because of its contributions to education and philosophy.
I’d like to go back and get the know the city better, and meet more of its people. In the meantime, nothing I saw in Edinburgh altered the somewhat dark impression formed over my years reading the Ian Rankin novels featuring police detection John Rebus.
The Border Lands
The further we went into Scotland the more beautiful it was. When we left Edinburg on Saturday morning, we traversed the A702, which follows an old Roman road, and the views were breathtaking. Stands of heather line the roadway and cover hillsides. Every few miles we went through little villages.
As we approached one, Dempsey said. “Here’s another.” “I think this one is bigger,” I responded. And indeed it was: the town of Biggar is a market center where people have lived since the Iron Age.
Next time I want to visit the Scottish islands, and take a 4-day train trip into the interior of the country.
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